BEFORE:
~ interface the fabric
~ serge seam allowances
~ to align all seam crossings zipper is sewn closed
~ always sew in the same direction – move the needle
~ seam allowances either open, or, if sewn together, clipped at zipper stop
REGULAR ZIPPER
- -sewn with OPEN SEAM, closed zipper
- – stitch the seam down from the zipper opening, reinforce
- – sew the zipper
- – topstitched (usually sewn to seam allowances first)
- lining sewn to the seam allowances by machine, or hand stitched
- for exposed zipper, sew very close to zipper teeth. For covered zipper, sew zipper tape aligned to 1.5cm seam allowances
INVISIBLE ZIPPER
– sewn with open seam, open zipper (1 – zipper pull can not be moved when zipper is closed, 2- zipper teeth need to be unrolled)
– needs to be sewn as close to zipper teeth as possible, may need ironing
– basted in first with a closed seam, closed zipper (to ensure alignment)
– rip the seam, open the zipper and sew the zipper in permanently. Backstitch the seam at both ends.
– see Silhouette Patterns video for an alternative method
SEPARATING ZIPPER
always shortened from the top. Sew from the bottom up, then remove teeth and cut from the top. Align and sew seam crossings first.
PANTS FLY ZIPPER
Kwik Sew, Craftsy – get the easiest combination. The center front seam is sewn with basting stitches and the zipper is sewn to extensions “behind” the sewn seam. KwikSew topstitching does not work so well.
IN-SEAM ZIPPERED POCKET
Try both techniques – pocket bags sewn first or zipper sewn first. First – – #3 Ottobre 2/2021. Second – Style Arc – https://www.stylearc.com/magazine/sewing-tutorials/how-to-sew-a-side-seam-zipper-pocket
Ottobre method lets you overlock the princess seams together continuing to the pocket edges.
ADDITIONAL TIPS
– zippers that cross seams, such as on a dress – baste in first (or glue down). Very easy to skew the seam. Also can start from the seam and sew up, then come back and sew down.
– metal zippers can be shortened also. Locking pants zippers need to be shortened from the bottom
Easy zipper for women’s pants – topstitched only, no fly – see Threads #49