Pants construction order

check if the fabric is suitable for pants – see through or not, clingy or not, wrinkles or not

  1. – sew the pocket flaps on, pocket fabric to the back, lining to the front
  2. sew side seams (leave pocket openings)
  3. sew pocket seams
  4. inner seam
  5. crotch seam from back to front zipper end marker, reinforceĀ 

– zipper fly – Kwik Sew or Kathy Ruddy class (same technique)

  ~ zipper teeth should be aligned with center front

  ~ zipper is sewn to the extensions and topstitched after

  ~ no zipper foot necessary, as the stitching should be a bit away from teeth

  Kathy’s method (LEFT OVER RIGHT or jeans zipper)

  – 1. Reinforce extensions with interfacing

  – 2. Right extension is the underlap – cut off extra seam allowance

  sewing zipper to extensions

  – 3. line up zipper tape with the edge of the underlap RS to RS

  – 4. sew zipper to the underlap

  – 5. tape shut the center front (regular transparent tape)

  – 6. flip the assembly to the WS and sew zipper to the left (overlap)

  topstiching 

  – 7. Draw the topstiching line and topstitch the overlap

  – 8. Topstitch on the fly guard strip to the right side (underlap)

– waistband with catching pockets

Updated